Some people might see this as just riding a single fin but here’s the real story. The waves at home were firing for a week and I really wanted to ride something different. I saw this board in my room but was a bit scared incase I broke it. It’s a @markrichardssurfboards 7’6 and something I cherish that he made it for me. Being scared but really wanting to ride it I text Mark to see what I should do. I waited for his reply, 15, 30 mins had past until I got to an hour. I had to go leaving the board at home because I didn’t know what to do. I was just about to pull up at Kirra when a message came through “Get out there on it!” He said. I instantly whipped the car around and headed home to get it. Excited he said yes but still petrified I’d brake it. What followed was one of the funnest yet nerve wracking surfs I’ve ever had. To my joy the board made it in and I was honoured to ride one of my hero’s boards! This pic and more are in the @corey_wilson book that’s in my bio!
This photo was a total fluke! @corey_wilson and I were totally burnt out from surfing all week. The forecast said the waves were meant to drop so we thought we’d have a lay day. My good mate @lincolneather came home freaking out that the waves were so good so we were like alright let’s go do a lap of the points. Corey wanted to try something different so he put a dark filter on. This was my second or third wave into the session. The waves were flawless but we couldn’t do it anymore. The body wouldn’t work so we called it quits. Later that day I hear an excited Corey screaming “WOW!!” For a session we didn’t put much effort into and to get this amazing shot was a total mind blow and the best end to a swell! This shot is in our new book and you can buy it from the link in my bio....
It’s finally here!! The book that @corey_wilson put together over the last 5 years of travel. Very honoured to have such a beautiful piece of art to look back on. Thanks Corey. To buy your copy go to the link in my bio.